I have finally completed a pair of Thurlow pants. Whew. It took long enough. I made a muslin at least a year ago. It fit pretty nicely and I decided I didn't need any tweaks, other than taking in the weird back seam extension (which, I would have liked to remove that from the pattern piece, but I didn't feel confident and I ended up just trimming the fabric down once I was happy with the seam on the actual pants). After making the muslin, I gained weight and put off making the real deal. I lost the weight, put it back on, and finally lost it again at a time I had some sewing time and voila the pants are finally done.
I took two weeks off of work at the end of 2016 and I was hoping to spend a lot of time in my sewing room. I did pretty well, finishing this Thurlow (which I lined), a Jalie top to go with it, a lined knit dress (McCall's 6355), and 2 wallets from a Craftsy course with Deby Coles (with my daughter, who made another 2 for herself).
The fabric for the Thurlow was a gray and darker gray checked flannel wool. The lining was some black Bemberg that I had in the stash. I had hoped I still had some gray China silk, but I didn't have enough. I had used it for a vest and OMG that stuff feels like heaven when you wear it.
At any rate, the pants came together smoothly. I still had to consult Lladybird's famous and super helpful tutorial. I would have been stuck with just Sewaholic's instructions, my goodness.
For the lining, I consulted a book I have, Easy Guide to Sewing Linings, by Connie Long. It is excellent; I just wish when I read it that the information would actually permeate my brain membranes. There is a bit about an adjustment you have to make on the lining pattern you create "on pants with slanted pockets," which I was pretty sure describes the Thurlow situation (the adjustment being you have to place the pocket piece in place with the pant leg pattern so you have the full front leg across the hips). I saw it, didn't think it through, ignored it, and realized my mistake when I started to sew the lining together. I patched up the lining fabric, I did not cut new pieces. All's well that ends well.
When I basted up the back seam of the pants, the fit felt pretty good. The view from the mirror was (and still is) strange. Is my ass that flat? I let out the seam as much as I could at the bottom of the back crotch, and I spent a lot of time trying to get a natural curve over the butt. Finally, I pulled out a pants sloper I had drafted and used that line.
I wore the pants to work and they were super comfy and warm.
Likes: the waistband and hips fit nicely. The fly and pockets are easy to sew (thanks Lladybird) and look great. In the end, the pants are very comfy. Also, I love the wool flannel and the lining.
Dislikes: I don't like the crotch curve and will have to fiddle when I feel confident about taking that on. The bell in the pants is too large for my taste. I don't want to go back to the 70s. I don't like that extension thing. I lose and gain weight as much as anyone but hell's bells I am not going to readjust my clothes every time it happens.