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Folkwear Dirndl

9/7/2023

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I joined a new orchestra, and a couple weeks before rehearsals started, I got an email about a volunteer opportunity to help the orchestra. We could work shifts at the Cleveland Oktoberfest, and the money we earned would go to the orchestra. So I signed up.

A couple days before my shift, I got the idea to make a dirndl to wear. I found the Folkwear costume online, got the pattern printed out at the Office Depot up the street, and started to work. 

I found everything I needed in my stash, from the fabrics—purple corduroy for the bodice, the flower lawn for the skirt, and the linen for the shirt and apron—to the 6 hooks and eyes and 1/4" boning. Boning. I had boning in my stash.

I only had a couple days, and not full days either, to work on it. But I thought I could maybe just do it.

Nope. I worked my shift in a comfy jersey superhero dress.
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I spent all of one day, surely 8+ hours, and half of the next working on the f--ing bodice. I made three muslins. I tried to adjust the fit my way, but the resulting muslins were disasters. Then I tried it the way the pattern instructions suggested, and thought I had nailed it.

After making my own 1/4" bias binding, sewing it around the neckline and armseyes—one side of which was by hand for Pete's sake—gathering the skirt, and sewing on all those frigging hooks eyes, I discovered the fit of the bodice totally sucked. 
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Jeez, just look a this!!! It's so maddening!!!
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Before realizing the whole effort was a disaster, I had had a couple epiphanies on this project I was so proud of.
  1. I sewed them hem of the skirt before I sewed the side seams. God, it was so much easier to control the fabric and get an even seam! I left enough unsewn at the sides to be able to sew up the side seams and then finish the hem.
  2. I didn't want the poofy sleeves of the Folkwear patterns blouse. I wanted fitted sleeves. So I was looking through patterns and looking around my sewing room,  and then it dawned on me what I wanted was pretty close to the chemise I sewed for my Jane Austen outfit that turned into my nightgown and that then finally ended up in a bin for refashioning. I shortened it and added a ruffle along the bottom, and ta da! I had a blouse like I wanted and a petticoat.
  3. I sewed the gathered skirt to 1" twill tape and then attached the twill tape to the bodice. This was brilliant, worked like a charm, and will be duplicated whenever appropriate. I got the idea when I was thinking how uncomfortable the waist felt to me when I was to wear a gathered skirt. I realized you sew right sides together and then the fabric falls back on itself, doubling the bulk at the waist. Then the twill tape occurred to me. It was a billion times easier adjusting the gathering along the length of the tape than doing it without the stability of the tape or when pinning it on the bodice. I had a nice long, straight, stable place to work instead of cramped on the inside of a round bodice. 
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​​Yeah, so I don't know what I'm going to do. I could take a couple darts out of the neckline at the gussets and maybe make it wearable for my next shift at Oktoberfest. If I get time, I might try to make another bodice. At least it would be easy to take the skirt off and resew it because of my twill tape trick.

One thing I will do differently is either sew a zipper in, because why the heck not? Hooks and eyes? Sheesh. Or sew a pattern with front lacing. That way, I could have some flexibility with fitting, pulling the laces tighter if I needed it, or loosening them if I needed that. Like this:
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Galaxy T

9/7/2023

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So I was watching this YouTube video and I fell in love with this tee shirt Becky from Notes from the Sewing room made, especially the fabric. ​
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She gave a link to the fabric, and I bought the same thing and made the same tee!
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I'm such a copy cat!

But I'm not crazy wild about my version. I don't think the neckline looks good on me—and I lowered it from the pattern based on Becky's review. Wasn't enough. I'm not sure the puffy sleeves do either. I've seen more of these, on Becky and other sewers, and they always look so cute! Maybe it's okay.
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I have been wearing it. I like it when it's tucked or under my overalls. 
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Kwik Sew 3897 Overalls

2/1/2023

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Back when my daughter was young, I made her overalls from Jalie 972. That is a great pattern and the overalls came together easily and looked good. She got teased when she wore them to school and I think she only wore them once. I wore them afterwards and they were very comfortable, but my husband made a comment about how they looked, so I stopped wearing them. It was something about how they seemed too big around the torso and made me look heavier than I was.

​It was a long time ago and I don't have a photo. 
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So when I wanted overalls for myself now, I was reluctant to use Jalie 972. I was also reluctant to make more Jalie pants. I love Jalie patterns, but I think their pant block is very out of whack with my bod. I discovered this while I was trying to make a unitard swimsuit out of Jalie 2317. I had to make several muslins because the crotch was insanely shorter than mine. I had to lengthen it by like 3 inches. Where is this swimsuit? Yeah, as is so often the case, all my time went to making muslins and getting the fit to be acceptable, so that I have yet to make it up in the fabric I bought for the swimsuit. Now, as per usual, my measurements have changed, and I'll have to decide, when I get around to making it for reals, whether I need a new muslin first.

Then, I recently made a muslin of a McCall's 5633, and it fit great so I compared that pattern with that of a similar pant style in a Jalie pattern I have and have long wanted to make, Jalie 968. The shapes of the pants were very different all around, so it's hard to be sure, but it seemed to me as if the Jalie crotch was indeed much shorter.

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Jalie 2317, swimsuit.
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McCall's 5633, and Jalie 968, casual pants.

So I went looking for something more fitted than Jalie 972 and came across the Kwik Sew pattern. It might be out of print, I'm not sure, but I got it on Amazon. I wanted lightweight overalls, not denim, but I also wanted cotton. I wasn't sure what specific sort or type of fabric would work for what I had in mind so I didn't want to waste time or money trying to find it online, so I went to Joann's. Out of the hundreds of bolts of stuff they have, I found 1 bolt of something that would work.  It was 100% cotton, not too stiff or heavy and not too lightweight, and light gray. They called it shirting. 

I could not be bothered to make a muslin for these. The measurements on the envelope seemed close to mine (size medium), and there is so much ease that I figured I would be okay. I was and these fit very well and look good, I think. Ideally, I would like a smidge more room in the back bottom/crotch area, but as is they are comfortable. 

I am pretty pleased with how they turned out.
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I bought the hardware for the straps at Joann's but didn't see any buttons I liked. Fortunately, I had these cute buttons in my stash.
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Window-seat Cushion and Pillows

1/14/2023

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I made these years ago but apparently never documented them. My husband built me some built-in bookshelves in my music room along with this window seat. I needed to make a cushion and some pillows. 
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The curtains were made by my mother-in-law for us when we moved into this house. I love the fabric. The curtains she made included these fringe bits and also long curtains. We don't use the long curtains anymore, but I saved the fabric. That's what I used to make the pillows. I found a matching red fabric at Joann's for the cushion.
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Back-of-the-pillow close up. I made the back an overlap flap so you can get the pillow in and out easily. I really like this design much better than a zipper. Thanks, YouTube.
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Fire! Potato Bag Failure

1/9/2023

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I bought Zap Batting. I used 100 percent cotton potato-decorated fabric, 100 percent cotton backing fabric, 100 percent cotton thread. And still the f-ing bag caught on fire! Thank God my sister was in her RV when it happened and was paying attention. That's all I need, to burn up someone's home or RV. 

Damn it!
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A Buttload of Christmas and Other Gifts

12/26/2022

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A couple days before Christmas, I got motivated to make some presents for family members: a car trash bag and a holder for plastic bags. Since I could imagine actually using both, I thought they might be appreciated. I made a set for my mother-in-law, my brother-in-law, and my brother-in-law's girlfriend. I chose a fabric for each person I thought they'd like.
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For the car trash bags, I followed this excellent tutorial on YouTube. For the plastic bag holders, I watched a few YouTube tutorials, all similar, all nice. In terms of basic design, especially the handle, I followed this tutorial. However, I had to make adjustments because I decided I wanted to quilt the bags. Once I was done with the quilting, I tried to add the channel along the edges and insert the elastic, which I did but it was not easy. The big problem was that the elastic didn't stretch and expand nicely because of the heaviness of the fabric due to the quilting. So I added a strip of unquilted fabric to the top and bottom, made the channels in those, and put the elastic in them. In the end I really like how it looks and it works perfectly. I love the feel and look of the quilting. It also gives the bag structure and body.
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My mother-in-law's.
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My brother-in-law's.
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My my brother-in-law's girlfriend's.
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And then I made a plastic bag holder each for my daughter Thome and me!
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And then, not for Christmas but sewn on the day of, some microwave potato bags for Thome, Thomas, and me. 
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I was given one and ended up loving it. At first, I didn't know what it was, but eventually I thought what the heck and I made a potato in it. It actually works. They taste better than a normal microwaved potato, I swear. They are indistinguishable from baked, IMO. Plus you don't have to prick them, just wash them and toss them in.

One time I left mine in too long and the bag caught fire on the corners. HAHAHA. So I wanted a replacement.
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Luckily, I happened to come across a key piece of information as I was watching a YouTube video on DIY present ideas. She noted that you need 100% cotton everything for items going into the microwave. She also noted that normal 100% cotton batting has noncotton fibers in it! You need to order a special batting. I used Pellon Wrap and Zap.

The funniest thing is I tried to find the same potato fabric as on the bag I'd been given, thought I couldn't, found something else, and it turned out to actually BE the same!
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Finally, I made some curtains for my daughter's room in her apartment.
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They'll hang in a fringe, just like the ones I made for my kitchen.
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Here are the curtains and her quilt in her room!
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And then, really finally, a couple days after Christmas, I made two of my sisters a potato bag each.
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And then for their (my dad's) house, a dragonfly plastic-bag holder. 
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Sue's Christmas Coin Quilt

12/26/2022

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I made this quilt for my mother-in-law Sue for Christmas. She's one of my most favorite people in the whole world. 
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It's a coin quilt with a variation in the sashing. I got the gist of how to make a coin quilt watching a good YouTube video, and I saw the variation idea on Pinterest. The fabric collection is one of the Kansas Troubles collections. This one is called Hope Blooms. I was pretty sure Sue would like these colors and patterns!

Here is the back.

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I got the idea to make this in October or November. Whatever it was, it was late in terms of making it in time for Christmas, especially considering the longarmer I use has a queue months long. I thought I could make a coin quilt pretty fast, and I thought I could quilt it myself on my regular sewing machine. Somehow.

It took me a couple weeks to find and assemble the fabrics. It took me about a week to cut and sew the front. Then, it turned out that I didn't have enough of the back fabric, an unanticipated glitch, as per usual. (I thought I couldn't really calculate how big the quilt was going to be before I started. I guessed. I guessed wrong.) I searched and found a big enough swatch of the fabric on Etsy. It came. It didn't match somehow. The design was smaller, the colors faded. And it was all vaguely smelly. I realized they'd washed it (after probably digging it out of someone's basement stash). No good. I searched again and found a better source and ordered plenty. When it finally arrived, at least another week had gone by since I'd finished the front. But I pieced the back together, matching the print, and then it was time to figure out how to quilt it.

It did not go smoothly.

I started by watching a lot of videos: quilting on a regular/standard sewing machine, straight-line quilting, quilting with a ruler, free-motion quilting, top tips when quilting for yourself, top things to avoid when quilting, etc. 

I decided the quilt would actually look good with straight lines. For sure, the learning curve should be lower and the results more predictable. I set my machine up on our big dining room table--a counter-height slab of granite about 3.5 feet by 5.5 feet.

I quilted a test using a table runner I'd pieced in a class. It looked great! It was easy to do.
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So I started sewing straight lines on the coin quilt and freaking out at the lack of control and the crappy results. It looked bad and I could not think of a way to gain more control.  I began to despair.

I went looking for other longarmer options. There are some around, but I was embarrassed to call them in early December asking for a job done by Christmas. I started to seriously consider the possibility of giving it after Christmas. My husband came to the rescue and built me this amazing topper that is flush with the bed of my machine.  I thought I took pictures, but I can't find them. Here is one with Hobbes on top; he's sitting on the table topper. You can see how it's flush with my machine near the scissors and yarn.
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Well, with that invention, it was possible to continue. I tore out a number of rows of stitches and started again. This time I could control the lines because the weight of the fabric was supported. It still wasn't easy. But it was possible.  

In the end, it wasn't perfect, but it was pretty good.
Front close-up.
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Back close-up.
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She loves it!
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Thomas's Quilt. A Change

12/15/2022

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UPDATE. I wasn't happy with the color of the pieces. I finally decided on a couple colors I like much better than white and black. The white and black did have the same subtle design on them, a same-color raised circle, that I really liked. Oh well. Since I couldn't have both, I chose to go with the colors I preferred.   

Also, my husband pressed me to ask Thomas again about the position of the pieces. My husband said that the game-start arrangement of all the pieces on the first two rows was boring. So I asked Thomas and he agreed and gave me this opening, the "Ruy Lopez," aka "the Spanish." I agree that it looks much more interesting!

Oh, also, I didn't use Heat and Bond on the new pieces. I took a class a local shop, Pins and Needles, on applique and they have another product that is much better. I think they call it "Soft Fuse." It's just as easy to use and just as adherent, but it's is much lighter.  It was a bit of a PIA to remove the black and white pieces, but it's done, and I am so happy I changed the bonding medium. ​
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All Nighter with Calvin's Hobbes

12/12/2022

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Photo and pattern by Seamster on Instructables at https://www.instructables.com/Stuffed-Hobbes-with-pattern/
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My son "commissioned" me to make a toy Hobbes as a gift for a friend of his. He sent me a photo of a crocheted Hobbes, but I don't know how to crochet. I said I could probably sew one. I thought I could find a pattern for a tiger and then adapt it as necessary, but instead I found a pattern for exactly what I needed, and it was FREE on Instructables!

It is a very nice pattern and was straightforward to put together. However, the creator, "Seamster," sewed all of his stripes on BY HAND except for the tail. While it does make for perfect stripe placement, it's insane and, ideally, one would figure out a way to machine sew ALL of the stripes on. For reals. I machined sewed the stripes on the tail and the arms and legs. I used a stich on my machine that looks like a whipstitch (#47 for future reference). I even found it worth unpicking the seams of the arms and legs to put the stripes on this way, which I had to do since I was following the pattern and only realized how easy it would be to machine sew after the appendages were sewn into their little sausage shapes. I should have unpicked the body, too, probably. It was a royal PIA to sew the remaining stripes on by hand and took for.ev.ah. I was up all night. 
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One disappointing consequence of sewing the stripes on the arms before the arms were attached to the body is that I didn't realize the top-most (shoulder) stripe was uniquely shaped; it's not a straight 3/4-inch stripe like the others on the arms, legs, and tail. It's curved so that the black covers all the orange up to the shoulder seam. I have a bit of orange. I looks fine but I do like the full coverage better. STILL, one could work out all of the stripe placements ahead of time and mark these on the pattern pieces so that the machine could do all the sewing work. I won't blame Seamster though because he did the most important work on the pattern and very generously shared his work with the world.

I didn't get the legs to come off the body in a way I wanted or liked. I didn't have time to start over though since I was rushing to get it done before my son returned to his house.

My husband ground down the buttons into the oval shape as Seamster did on his tiger.

I made my Hobbes a red scarf as suggested and shown by Seamster. Apparently, this is one of Hobbes's outfits.
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I also made a mask as suggested and shown by Seamster. Again, another of Hobbes's props.
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Here's a photo with both the mask and scarf. Seamster also made a nice tie and a pennant, but I didn't have time.
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Thome's Quilt, Completed and Delivered

11/27/2022

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Front.
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Back.
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Closeup of quilt backing, pleased recipient, and The White Ingrate.
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Quilting pattern was called "Persian," I think. I really love it. Thanks, Quilting Bee!
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