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Ohio Star Quilt(s) Progress

1/2/2021

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I finished piecing the front of the quilt for the RV...and the back. I was originally intending to make the quilt "reversible" in the sense the design on the back would be another interesting view. This was, I believe, my husband's suggestion. We've been discussing it a lot and I've lost track of who suggested what. 

Anywho, when I got it done I reconsidered making it a separate quilt. We don't share covers in general. He runs hot; I run cold. I use my down comforter ("the cloud" as I call it) year-round.  He uses a flimsy thing. Plus he will hog a shared cover and I will wake up in the middle of the night cold. So we each have our own. Why would it be different in the RV? It wouldn't. Plus, I am putting the warmest wool batting in. It will probably be too warm for him. Why not make the original "back" its own quilt and put a poly blend in for him? He agreed and now I have more yardage for the backs of the now two quilts plus the poly blend batting on order and I will baste them together when it all arrives.

Original Front, 20 Ohio Stars

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Note that the sides don't extend far over the sides because these quilts are intended for the RV bed, which is slightly smaller.

Original Back, Now 2nd Quilt, 1 Ohio Star

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Bonus: Pillow Cases

Hubby wants red pillow cases. It might be overkill, but I'm not passing up the chance to make something he's interested in. I made 4.
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I used an existing pillowcase for the measurements, and then put this border on for some relief from the red. So cute.
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S2648 Amazing Fit in Purple Ponte

12/5/2020

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This dress has been in the works for years, literally, where "literally" means what it's supposed to. I made a mockup in denim that was about the sixth in a long line of mockups, where the previous mockups were in muslin. I tweaked and tweaked the fit. The denim fit me pretty darn well. 

​I decided to make it up in a purple ponte I had in my stash. It's got a little bit of sparkly bits in it, which is not something I usually go for, but I bought it online and didn't see the sparkles until I opened the package. The color is very nice. The fabric is weighty and it might be that or it might simply be the fact that it is a knit while all the mockups were wovens, but this dress doesn't fit me as well as I would like. The waist seems a bit low. I feel the neckline is too low. I should like more coverage. It is very comfortable and I think the color looks good on me. I wore it while competing in a Toastmasters speech contest today and I felt pretty good in it.
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I did buy some lovely knit lining from Emma One Sock. I had loads of tricot in my stash but I read up on Pattern Review what others had used for knits and a couple people recommended this fabric from EOS. It is quite silky and although it was a bit of a PIA to sew, I am glad I used it.

I had planned on putting a zipper in, but I zoned out when serging the back seam. I'll have to pay closer attention if I make it up in a woven.
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Jalie Eleonore

9/12/2020

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I am making progress on my mission to use up my fabric stash and use patterns from the multitude of unopened, untested patterns already in my possession! (Although I am not sure how to honestly assess my progress if I am still buying more fabric...which I am.)

I have had Eleonore ever since it first came out. Only yesterday did I cut open the package and extract the pattern. I had some stretch cotton fabric I had bought a few years ago because it was advertised for shirt making, but I would never wear it as a shirt because it's too heavy and contains lycra. In fact, I would not wear it anywhere on my upper body because the feel is just too irritating—as I discovered when I made a dress from McCall's 6346 out of another fabric I bought of the same type. 

However, the fabric seemed like it might work for pants. At any rate, I am working on staying focused on the mantra "progress, not perfection." So I just dove in, traced out the pattern, and cut it out.

At first, I thought they were too tight, but when I put them on again for pictures, they were pretty comfortable.  
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The top stitching does not show up at all--maybe because of the busy pattern, maybe because this is just regular thread, not topstitching thread.
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Quilting Adventure Begins

9/9/2020

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Ohio Star

We're thinking of buying an RV. It's a Gulf Stream Vintage Cruiser, which has a cool retro design on the inside. It got me thinking about making a quilt that would go along with the view. 
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So I went through my multitude of quilting books (bought at book sales for cheap) and searched for something I liked. I didn't like things that were too busy. I had to find something the man of the house would like so no flowers and such. I came across the Ohio star pattern and liked the idea that it could kind of represent our homestead state while we were traveling. Plus it was simple and I liked how it looked.

The directions in the books were mighty complicated looking. I went searching on YouTube and found fabulous resources. The first was a great video from Theresa Down Under: Ohio star quilt block. Thanks to those directions, I was confident I could handle it. I watched a whole set of videos on Craftsy (free while they get the platform up and running again!! So excited it's back to Craftsy!): ​Quilt tutorial. This was excellent and showed the whole process of quilting from creating the blocks to binding.  

I made my first block ever out of old sheets. All I had was blue. The real one will be red and white but this was just to see if I could pull it off. It was surprisingly easy and enormously satisfying. It fit when it it was done. That is, there was nothing to fit so it couldn't disappoint. Hahahahaha.
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Then, as per usual, my ambitions started to get out of hand. I thought, after I make my quilt, I will make one for my sister, who has restored an old 15' RV and camps with it. My husband advised me to check with her before I put in the effort but I didn't want to wait* and the compromise was I made her a couple pot holders in the colors I thought she might like. I used the same Ohio start block thinking it would appeal to her for the same reasons as me. 
[*Update: the teal was the wrong color. Oh wells. ] 
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I was surprised by how much I enjoyed the whole quilting process. We'll see how long it lasts when I try to make a queen-sized quilt! 

Update 9/12/2020

I made larger block in red and white.  I want the final blocks to be 12" so I can make the queen-size quilt 4 blocks by 5. I will make the white border sashing wider than the picture below, wide enough that the width of the final quilt fits the proper dimensions (90" x 108").
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So here is the block I made. I cut the squares for the triangle squares 5.5" and the center and corner squares 4.5". That wasn't large enough because the final block is only 11" and that includes the 1/2" seam allowance, so all told the square is 1.5" inches too small all around.

I forgot to trim the individual triangle squares before sewing them together. Oopsie. Turns out that step matters... Still, I'm excited. I think this will be a fun project that will look cool in the end.
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Gap Tank Top Copy

7/18/2020

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I don't have a picture of the original Gap tank top. I wore it to death. It was long past its expiration date when I finally got rid of it. But before I did, I studied the construction and created a pattern. And I made 3 versions in different colors OUT OF MY SON'S OLD T-SHIRTS. I am so very proud of myself. I made these a couple years ago and am only now remembering to document them.

The first one I made was black. 
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I was too lazy to change thread out of the sewing machine so...I got nice-looking "top stitching"!  
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The other two are a gray and a white.
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I wear these all the time when it's hot. And I made them out of OLD T-SHIRTS!!!

And my white one is not crooked. It just was put on too fast.

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McCall's 6696

7/18/2020

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Ya know...it's a lot of work to put into something that doesn't turn out as nicely as one would wish. I have a few shirtdress patterns in my stash--none of which I have made before. I was in stash-busting mode and wanted to use up a black and white flower lawn I'd been saving for the purpose...for a while. This pattern comes with different cup sizes, so I chose it. I wear a D but chose the C cup remembering my Wild Ginger fiasco. I followed all the other sizing guidelines on the envelope, figuring if they took the time to make different sized cups, they were going to make a pattern that fit the stated measurements. Nope. What are these people thinking? Who likes massive amounts of ease? I made a number of adjustments to this dress, unfortunately after I cut it out. So the pleats at the back have been pulled forward because had to take a couple inches off the side from the waist on down. I had to raise the waist band...a couple times, not believing the first time that I would need to take out be so much as it turned out I had to. I had to remove at least 2 inches out of the center back because it was absurdly voluminous; there is still too much fabric there, but it's better. Since the yoke was cut and sewn and the waist band was already cut and I didn't want a seam there, I took a large dart out under the yoke and tapered to the waist band. I never intended to sew the collar because my husband says he doesn't like them. I figured I'd try this once and see if I liked it. I do. I bound the edge with a bias strip I cut from the same fabric. This is a lightweight lawn and is super comfortable. It was easy to sew with (and seam rip!), but the cut edges threatened to fray right away so as soon as I could I serged the seam edges.

Looking at the pictures, I think the back waistband is still too low. Next time...
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Simplicity 2648 "Amazing Fit" Mockup

7/18/2020

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I thought this would be my Holy Grail dress. I've been tweaking the fit for....years. Lately, it's been hanging in my sewing room because it didn't fit anymore! I've lost weight again, and now it fits, so I thought I'd document the mockup before I take it apart to use it to alter the paper pattern and then make a real dress. I can see from the pictures that I don't like the cap sleeves; thank goodness. (Maybe the darts I pinned out of the neckline are too big?)  I thought in the mirror they looked so good that longer sleeves wouldn't work. But I like longer sleeves. So the real version will have them. 
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Update: I made it up in a knit. 
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McCall's 6355

7/18/2020

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I've made this pattern a few times before in a knit. I wear most of those dress all the time because they look okay and they are super comfortable. But in looking at the pics, I've always suspected I made a size too large at the top. Here's one I made in a knit a while back:
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I made the pattern again in a woven, and I am now convinced it's a size too large for me at the top.

I wanted to make a simple sheath for a trip to Hilton Head in some linen I had in my stash. I had bought it to make a beach coverup for the previous year's trip to Hilton Head, but I thought it was too heavy and changed to a lighter-weight white linen. I also  thought I hated the color of the blue, and I called the fabric "linen fit for a tablecloth." But I pulled it out before this trip and I realized the color is actually super nice. I realized it could be neat if you make the right thing with it. So I decided to try it with McCall's 6355 since I had made a lot of alterations to that pattern for myself and I had an--as it turns out--incorrect notion that it fit me. Sigh.

When I first basted this linen version together, I needed a little more room at the hips, so I removed the side seams and resewed. Then the darts, which I remembered lowering for the knit versions, look too low now. I pulled the shoulders up and it seemed to make everything look better. So I cut off an inch of the top shoulder seam. A nice side benefit was that the sleeve fit perfectly in the armseye, no ease to fiddle with. I put an invisible zipper in the center back (the pattern calls for an optional side-seam zipper, but I didn't feel qualified to pull that off). 

So I like this okay--it's a very comfortable and breathable fabric and I like the color and the matching of the sheath idea to the linen. HOWEVER, I am not sure if I sewed the sleeves in the wrong sides (and thus backwards) or if that inch I took out of the shoulders screwed up the fit of the dress on my torso. Maybe it's the sizing. The neckline is waaaay too large and my brassiere straps are usually visible. Oh well. Onward.
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Another Blackwood Cardigan

7/18/2020

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I wear my gray Blackwood Cardigan all the time in spite of it not closing fully in front. IT is so comfortable and I love the color. I  figured if I wear that one, I'd wear one in purple. This new one is definitely french terry; I paid attention this time. But it is different than my gray one, which is not quite as heavy. This one is definitely more like a sweatshirt material. It's okay. I still like it, and I like the purple a lot. No issues making it; it went together very easily. 
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Wild Ginger Fail, Fail, Fail, Fail, Fail, and FAIL

6/1/2020

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I have been eyeing the Wild Ginger Pattern Master program for years.

The idea of it! Put your measurements in, and it will draw up patterns that fit you perfectly. Choose from a veritable host of designs--including historical styles! Mix and match design elements. Create your own details and adjustments.

The price was never out of reach, but the uncertainty surrounding the program's true ease of use and quality of output made the investment unjustifiable. 

Recently, I have been at such a point of frustration and disappointment with my sewing. Most knit garments turn out fine, but I was not happy with my fit skills when it came to wovens. I had tried and tried to learn to fit things, but I was never content with the outcome. I have to work in fits and starts because of work and family and other demands on my time. Maybe I never gave enough focused attention to learning the skill of fitting or maybe I never gave enough time to any one method. 

I have looked at
  • Joy Mahon's method on Craftsy and in her book. It makes intellectual sense, but I never really understood how to go from taking my measurements to adjusting the patterns.
  • Pati Palmer and Marla Alto's Fit for Real People. I've spent the most time with this method and I just find it tedious.
  • Nancy Zieman's pivot and slide method (Fitting Finesse). I have read this book but never tried the method. This is the one I think I will return to next.  
  • Drafting slopers from my measurements. I did this in a class with local sewing teaching Karen Day, who is awesome. The slopers fit well...but I am not sure what to do with them! How do I use them to make the mountain of commercial patterns I own fit me? How do I turn the slopers into actual garments?
About the Pattern Master program I was most held back by concern that it would not really work in practice. One piece of counter evidence I would return to in my mind when reconsidering the purchase is that about 1o or 15 years ago I had found a company online offering a similar service. You entered your measurements, picked a pattern, and it drafted the pattern. The dress I made fit well, though some elements were the sort to hide fit flaws (a gathered neckline, for example). I haven't seen a trace of that company anywhere recently.

Well about a month and a half ago, I gave in and bought the program. I bought both the program for wovens and the program for knits. They were on sale and buying both was the same as the one when not on sale.

Thus began my Wild Ginger Wild Goose Chase.

Fit Garment: Mockup 1

As soon as I downloaded the program, I hastily measured myself and typed the results in. I wasn't careful. The resulting fit garment did not fit. My bad. I sent in the photos and the measurements and a reply came back lighting fast. This during the COVID-19 lockdown. I was impressed. A couple tweaks were recommended. 
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Fit Garment: Mockup 2

I adjusted the pattern as instructed but the results were still bad.
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Fit Garment: Mockup 3

I took better measurements. I made another mockup. No hunchback, but still not a good fit. I sent in these pictures and these measurements and got a quick reply with new suggested tweaks. Now we were starting to get into adjustments in default settings and such and I was getting more apprehensive.  I made these changes and another mockup. Nyooop.
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Fit Garment: Mockup 4

All this time I had been selecting from the basic settings a D cup. That's my bra size. But the excess in the bust on these mockups was just not going away, even with reducing bust ease in the default settings. So I made a new mockup with a C cup and remeasured myself so very carefully and made another mockup. This was better but still not great. I sent it in and was told to add two more front darts.
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Fit Garment: Mockup 4 x 2

....which I did. And it seemed to be on an improving trajectory. I sent these photos in and was told to reduce the front and back length. 
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Fit Garment: Mockup 5 for REALS

Again, which I did. Now, this wasn't perfect but it was so better that I thought it could work.

Frankly, I was very tired of sewing fit garments!!! Not only did I have to tape PDF pattern pieces together, cut out new pieces, trace all the markings, and sew the damn things together, I only had one zipper so every time I made a new mockup, I had to rip out the zipper from the previous one. 


​So I decided to proceed with making a dress. This I did in spite of a couple concerns. The fit dress is very tight under my arms. You can see the all the drag lines. I probably could have take more out of the back bodice length too. I asked the Wild Ginger support person and she said the fit dress was supposed to be tight and if the armhole on a garment was too tight I could do x or y.

​I forget because at that point I wasn't paying attention. I bought this program because I was supposed to. be. able. to. type. in. my. measurements. and. have. it. draft. a. pattern. that. fit. me. perfectly. I wasn't supposed to have to tweak default settings, adjust my bra, and make up test armholes and then... what? I don't know. Anyway, I decided to take a chance and generate a real dress pattern using the mockup 5 settings.   
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And finally a dress. Very sad.

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Well, I am done. For a long while at any rate. W.T.F.?
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    I am a wife and mother. I work fulltime. In my spare time, I sew, learn violin, do yoga, and am active in Toastmasters.

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