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Scout Muslin

10/15/2019

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So many people have sewed the Scout Tee and raved. After my fourth muslin of Simplicity 2599, I went a little nuts. I switched plans and bought the Scout pattern. The Scout Tee looks so easy! No darts! Something I remember reading praised the pattern for clever pattern design that resulted in a good fit "instead of darts." (I could be making that up.)  What if instead of tweaking a Big 3 bodice pattern over and over again, I could just use a cleverly designed pattern? It's also billed as a "woven tee," and something about that description is alluring. 

I did have my doubts. Although many people seem to look good in the photos of their versions, the one on Grainline's site seems to pull a little under the arms, and...well that is not a very big-bosomed model. I need a C or D cup or I have to make an FBA. Still, I went ahead and made the purchase. I wasn't thinking straight.
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I put the PDF pattern together and sewed up a muslin. Not good. Neckline gapes, which I know how to fix, but it pulls under the arms to such a degree that it is uncomfortable, and I don't know how to fix that. The back is rather voluminous. 

​I can't sew this up in good material. It needs adjusting, and I'm not sure how to adjust it. That vague memory of "clever construction" makes me think I can't do the usual. Maybe someday I will investigate to see if anyone has ever had similar problems and what they did about it. I suppose I could try a larger size at the top. 
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Simplicity 2599

10/15/2019

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This looks like a simple top. I suppose it is. I have finally finished my first actual garment from it, and it's only taken me about 10 years. I bought the pattern ages ago. I've taken it out and considered it multiple times. Finally, in the past few months, I resolved to reduce some stash fabric by making tops of some silk chiffon I purchased when I first started sewing again and didn't have better sense, and I took this pattern out. I made a muslin. Even though it comes with different cup sizes, which helps immensely, don't get me wrong, it still did not fit well. I added about 2" to the hips. I lowered the dart by 1". I added two long darts in the back. I was pretty happy with it at that point.

However, I was thinking about duplicating a silk chiffon top I own already:
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So I made the neckline a V-neck. Then I realized I had no seam allowance. Once I added, I realized I didn't know how to manage the partial opening at the top--how do you account for seam allowance at the opening, have none in the middle of the garment, and not have it look awful? By this point I had made 5 muslins and I couldn't deal with making more. 

I looked up, saw some cotton batik lawn-like fabric I'd bought at last year's sewing expo, and decided to make it up in this pattern and went back to the round neckline. I made my own bias tape using the bias-tape-maker gadget I'd owned for 10 years, and it turned out great! 
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I am super happy with the fit of this top, and I like the round neckline. Bonus...I didn't put a zipper in even though it's a woven. I can get it on and off easily. So I will use this pattern for the two swaths of silk chiffon I have. I have to line them, so it's going to be hell to sew, and I'm not looking forward to silk chiffon bias tape making, and I am still debating a zipper closure...
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    I am a wife and mother. I am retired: yay! 

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